원정 개요

Kawakita - 19 May 70

All expedition members to KTM today.
25 April summit by Takeo and Furutani.
Mostly same route as Czechs, from northwest; but big crevasse and icefalls so same deviations.

Most difficult between C3 and C5 with big crevasse after IV 30-40m wide with 30-40m from lower lip to upper; last year Czechs and Yugos did not have this crevasse to get over; crevasse had slight overhang; Japanese used small ladders and very long pitons.

C2 - 5600m 19 April
C3 - 5900m 22 April
C4 - 6450m 23 April

Bivouac site = big crevasse between C4 and C5.

Big avalanches near Annapurna II.

All members reached 6000m including Dr; couldn't put more members on summit because had placed summit one week earlier and not enough food supplies in high camps.

Did not use oxygen at all.
Leave Nepal after 1-2 weeks perhaps; may do some trekking.


Kawakita - 7 March 70

5 members arrive today, 3 already here; so all here now all baggage in Pokhara already. Same route as Czechs. Leave morning 15 March to Pokhara and 18 March leave to march and establish basecamp 10 days later.

Summit attempt 25 April; 4 camps with highest 7000m
6 Sherpas, 40 porters.


Kansai University - Annapurna IV

Munekazu Takeo, vice-leader
M Teramoto, K Ichijima
Other 5 most arrive March by Thai, staying rented house near Chinese embassy
Same peak as Yugo and Czech, North Face ascent
1st Japanese attempt on Annapurna IV
First time in Nepal for all members; all 8 hope reach summit
Brought same oxygen for medical purposes
3-5 camps (last at 7000m)