원정 개요

BC at Dyazumpa west side of Lungsampa Glacier near junction with Ngozumpa Glacier
High point at 4 biv by all three members.

From 8th to 16th bad weather. On 16th reached 6300m on region for acclimatization, but too much dangrous snow to go higher to top of point 6500m due south of Cho Oyu. On 17th started up Cho Oyu (all 3 members). Then as got high, encountered waist-deep snow: wind-blown powdered snow, also very hot. Climbed from 7400m to 7600m in night, and feared starting avalanches. On 21st down to BC. 30th Sept up from BC all 3 members and went to 6600m in night. 1st Oct 6:00 pm up to 7100m on same route. Slept till early morning 2nd Oct and then saw too dangerous from avalanching above and returned to BC. Then more snow and more wind from north so no further chance of success. Route is very good with less snow. Route to the right (as you look at mountain) of Nairz-Koblmueller-Messner route.

Joos feared he had pulmonary edema when descended on 21st Sept to 6600m and asked for helicopter but after slept there, was better, down to BC 22nd and called off helicopter and was strong enough after medications to resume climb, but still today not fully recovered so did not go Everest. Other 2 members went to Everest BC perhaps only to visit.