원정 개요

BC same as Dhaulagiri I BC
C1 on East Ridge of South Col (this ridge not followed all the way to high point)
Biv on South Ridge.
High point on South Ridge leading to East Ridge.

Before storm climbed Dhampus Peak, Delcasso, Rouys and Sirdar Kami Tenzing 17th Oct and 18th Oct. Delcasso and Sherpa to point 6227m on 18th Oct. Cabanne and Rouys for acclimatization and 5 other members had altitude sickness and went down below Dhampus Pass. 19th snowstorm so other 5 never joined climb.

4 members went to Sita Chuchura. 26th Rouys climbed up alone, arrived East Ridge at 6100m to look for good route because big icefall problem. From down below could see good route: ridge descends to icefall and this icefall not possible for 4 members only and no fixed ropes. All down to BC, but on 27th all 3 (except Delcasso) and sirdar to dome while Delcasso went to look for others. This time saw good route on E Face on other side of icefall. 28 and 29th Rouys and Kami started early in morning with tent and 2 days supply to try this route: down to Dhamla Glacier to find icefall route - down to 4600m and find one way to cross icefall from Sita Chuchura south side. Climbed rock ridge and spent one night at 5400m on this ridge and next day (29th) reached end of rock ridge via difficult sector and top of big rock was ice, so crossed below the ice cornice; here slab avalanche danger. Arrived at pass just below Sita Chuchura summit but this last ice face not possible without fixed rope. Descended to BC. All in BC 30 Oct.