원정 개요

BC at 4600m at north side of Jannu Glacier
C1 at 5500m on river, on 1st steep rock section.

Oefner left Biv2 (7250m) 10-11 Oct midnight and on top 6:30 am 11th Oct, returned to Biv2 where Van Sprang was with frostbite on both feet. Other 2 summiters left Biv2 6 am 13th Oct and 1:30 pm on top, left top at 3:30 pm after making many photos and returned to Biv2 4:30 pm 11th Oct. On descent Oefner and Van Sprang bivouacked at about 6500m, 12th Oct Van Sprang and Oefner to BC.

14th Oct 11:30 am De Koning and Friele left Biv2 and 6 pm last radio contact at 8 pm as per schedule and believe were hit by avalanche sometime before 7 pm. On 15th were seen by Ferry at about 5500m at bottom of N Face; must have been avalanche because they were abseiling down and when found were not on same rope.

Technically difficult: Wall of Shadows steep ice - most difficult section below C2 and same difficult rock pitches below C1. Fixed about 1300m rope (French fixed rope of first part of route).