원정 개요

Summited after sunset, returned to C6 at 2:30 am.


Jerin - 7 Nov 1969

Arrive KTM Thursday Draslar, Mlekuz and Jerin; rest tomorrow afternoom by charter. Draslar fingers OK, but one toe uncertain still.

Started for summit 9 am. 3 pm in afternoon still very low. At 6 pm last part and descended by moonlight very bright, but very cold. Days shorter than in spring (at 5 pm getting dark).

Were exhausted by time returned to camp, could not have come down alone.

Expedition reached Pokhara yesterday and Jerin and liaison officer to KTM Wednesday.


JOM Roberts - 3 Nov 1969

West Ridge of Annapurna II: waxy ridge, series of snow towers.
Up to summit of C4 for observation and radio contact.
Annapurna IV just a feature south of West Ridge of Annapurna II.
Security team = support team.
C6 probably where West Ridge steepens to summit of Annapurna II.

C5 = 24,000 ft
C6 = 23,800 ft ? or above

Support team at Annapurna IV summited and returned down to C5 for night.

Bonington, Richard Grant and Sherpa Ang Nima except C5 to summit and down C3 (created while they were climbing) all in daylight.


Kunaver - 11 Sept 1969

Approach march will be wide sweep northeast from Pokhara and north of Annapurna massif to Marshyangdi River to east of Braga and the south to ridge leading to Annapurna IV and below summit of C4 along ridge to C2.

5 camps above base; summit attempt up to 20 Oct. Establish base 25 Sept. Need at least 3-1/2 weeks before final assault for acclimatization.

Liaison officer D. B. Rain (2 Indian Everest and 1 Japanese expeditions); from Home Ministry.

Botanical research as well as climbing, especially moss and other very primitive plants at high altitudes; Kazmir Draslar bird's parasite collect.

Base very near Czechs.

Members Kunaver, Sazonov, Stupnik and Malezic KTM to Pokhara 12 Sept; others 10th Sept except Jerin (9) who goes on 13 Sept.