원정 개요

Summit team of 3 left from C6, 2 returned from 6900m, Kondo summited and bivouaced at 7330m on descent. MM29:13

Sakashita - 23 May 1973

Others arrive KTM on 25th by bus.

Kondo, Ogawa and Sakashita tried to reach summit. Very late, so 2 members stayed in biv and only Kondo to summit about 8:30 pm.

7300m on West Ridge.

Left C5 6:00 am on 6 May, reached biv site at 12:00. Attack time very short, so Ogawa stayed there and other 2 went on. Leader on walkie-talkie at 5 pm told them to come back "so I came back but Mr. Kondo cannot hear so went on" (Sakashita and Kondo had separated because Sakashita had returned to biv for flag). Sakashita at 7650m at 5 pm and returned to biv. Kondo returned to biv site at 11:00 pm. Enough moonlight for Kondo to see to climb. Kondo had no flag with him.

Only one summit attempt via West Ridge route as planned.

No accidents, illness, frostbite, or yeti.

Route now very difficult but very long; ridge snow until summit ridge of mixed snow and rock on which rope not necessary.

Shinamura and Takaku

2 members arrive 7 March. Leave 1st March maybe, go by truck to Pokhara.

1000m fixed rope; maybe West Ridge; now route from British but same as Shinshu University.

Shinshu University last camp too far from summit: if possible want make last camp at foot of summit at 7300m.


Takaku - 18 Feb 1973

3 more members arrive 22nd including leader.
2 more arrive 8 March including Dr, meet at BC.
Leave 1st March by truck with equipment to Pokhara.

Basecamp south ex-Pisang route probably north onto ridge running east from Annapurna IV. Maybe same as Shinshu; not sure present route. If possible like to climb via North Ridge.

Caravan reaches base camp about 10 days.
8 Sherpas.
5 camps above base; C5 about 7500m.
Summit about middle May.

No members climbed in Nepal before but have climbed in Europe in summer and winter.

Came last year spring on recce to look at southern approaches but concluded too dangerous because of avalanches.