원정 개요

Nuptse West Ridge
BC - 27 Sept, about 5180m
Bivs reached 22,000 feet on 8 Oct.

Duff & Allan - 13 Oct 82

Hind walking out, arrives KTM about 16 Oct; wasn't well and didn't climb at all.

Nuptse:

BC established 27 Sept at about 17,000 feet (same as last year). Did exactly same as last year: same route with bivs only starting 4 Oct, got same point and down to BC on 8 Oct. Lot more and thus more dangerous cornices members could do it successfully but 6-7 km of very technical climbing on a ridge without safe points. Very slow progress on this long route. Psychologically destroying souls actually. No accidents.

Duff doesn't plan another try on this at least for few years.


Duff - 23 Aug 82

Nuptse BC about 20 Sept in same place as 1981 at 17,250 feet
Same route exactly as for as we got and then onward and upward = West Ridge.
Snowholes on the way up. 10-12 days to top, 8 days of this to NW Summit.
No Sherpas above BC; no oxygen at all.

Scottish Himalayan Expedition
Duff at Blue Diamond 17 Oct (meets trekking group there).

Reason for no success last year were:
1) misjudged speed with which descent was actually possible
2) didn't carry up enough food supplies
Bad weather was not the reason.