원정 개요

C. G. Egeler, Dutch Expedition

1st Dutch expedition to Himalayas: purpose to (1) geologist research, 5 geologists of university of Amsterdam on co-operative structure with Alpine structures of Europe and to study strategraphy and age and tectanic place of huge granite intrusions; 2) mountain climbers, 2 geologist who also climb. Led by Lionel Terray, French expert who arrives Kathmandu 22 Sept and leaves for Pokhara 24 Sept and from there 26 Sept.

Main group arrives 14 Sept - to Pokhara 16 Sept.
Will stay together at least to Tukuche and Muktinath. 4 climbers then will survey best way to climb and topographer will work on top map and 2 go parties of 2 mean each off on work.

Nilgiri North 7031 meters directly north of Annapurna massif. Chosen the very difficult mountain, never attempted before. Chosen also from geologist point of view and Terray knows area (was with Hertzog Annapurna in 1950). Will have 2 base camps: 1st Tukuche and 1 for mountaineering but where don't know at all until investigate area, probably from north.

10 Sherpas altogether during climbing.
Aim to reach summit 1st of Nov or towards end of Oct. Mountain climbers will leave towards end of Nov. Geologist stay still end of Dec.

Scientific part financed by Dutch govt. pure research organizaton. Climbing part financed by Royal Geography Society, Royal Netherland Alpines Club, etc plus Phillips (radio apparatus and medicines) and other firms and all members.

Deputy leader and Egeler and Terray did much prelims climbing and scientific work in border. Started working towards Nepal goal in 1950.

Prof. Dr C. G. Egeler - physics, geology, University of Amsterdam
Dr. T. De Booij - staff geological institute of University of Amsterdam
2 physicians will do some physiological work on dehydration at higher altitude; 1 is climber, 1 just expedition doctor.

Expedition has 10 members:
5 geologists
4 pure mountain climbers
1 doctor

Nilgiri massif has 4 peaks
1. north - 7031 meters
2. central
3. south - 6837 meters
4. southeast


Letter from Egeler - Oct 15 (C1 5400m)

The progress of one expedition on Nilgiri is favourable. Camp I is established on ridge at an altitude of 5400m. C2 is established. On Friday a beginning was made with the long and difficult traverse through the ice face from C2 to the western ridge. I had hoped that this would be completed on Sunday, Camp 3 being established high on the Western Ridge. On Friday the assault party don't however not quite reach the ridge. I am hoping that today they will have better luck. The assault party consists of Terray and the 3 brothers V Lookeren Campagne is handicapped by a high altitude throat, whereas they self are occupied with the moving of equipment and food up to the high camp. If all would go as I expect the north summit of Nilgiri would be reached within 4 or 5 day. I intend to have a "follow on" for those members that cannot parties - in the first assault if weather permits.


Letter from Egeler - 9 October 1962

This is to inform you that things are on the move. Lionel Terray reached our general base at Siang last Thursday. Friday was used for a regrouping or our materials and provisions. On Saturday the members of the climbing party left the valley and established advanced basae on the northern flank of Nilgiri, at an altitude of 4150m. The party includes Terray, the three brothers Van Lookeren Campagne, De Booy and myself, while Dr Tammes has also come up, intending to stay at advanced base. Yesterday Sunday, all the members have advanced to a point at approximately 5400m in the northern flank of the mountain, where C1 will be established. They camped up there, and are now busy making a comfortable place on what one might call a promontoire" of the North Face, from which the actual attack will be launched. Today our 5 Sherpa's have moved up with loads, like yesterday. They will come back tonight and tomorrow will go up once more. Personally I hope to join the others tomorrow in the attack camp. It should be noted that the jump from 4150m to 5400m should not be underestimated, the more so as we are all - with the exception of Terray - not yet fully acclimatized. I was at 5000m yesterday, but suffered considerably it must be old age.

Our plan is to proceed from our eagle nest, somewhere in the central part of the face, by means of a traverse, onto the western ridge. Here another camp will be established. In my opinion this traverse constitutes the most difficult part of the climb and especially the very steep part directly below the ridge promises to be particularly nasty. When once on the ridge the going should be fairly good, though the distance to the summit is long and may necessitate a further camp.


Charles Dufour (by email) - 29 June 2006

I am able to inform you there were three brothers Van Lookeren Campagne, all three reached the summit of Nilgiri (North).

Paul = P.C. Van Lookeren Campagne
Peter = P.F.J. Van Lookeren Campagne
Holger = H.C. Van Lookeren Campagne