원정 개요

BC at Lhotse Shar Glacier east of Island Peak
C1 at Col between Island Peak and South Ridge
C2 on South Ridge
C3 on South Ridge
C4 at junction of S and SE Ridge.

Most difficult section was very steep ridge with much snow and ice with a little exposed rock between C1 and C4. Fixed 2500m between C1 and C4 and 1000m more needed to C5 at 7900-8000m where seracs were seen in this section. On 27th Sep 4 members who had pitched C4 went up from C4 with all equipment from C4 to pitch biv camp at C5 site while other four from C2 to C3 and to make new C4 so could not see higher foursome as they moved up; had radio contact in morning and higher group said they were moving up. On 29th searchers found steps to about 7450m and wind slab avalanches sign on right side of SE Ridge and others in BC saw bodies. Doctor went to them and buried bodies seen, 3 high searchers climbed to 7800m, called off due to grief.