원정 개요

BC at normal Lhotse Shar BC site beside Lhotse Shar Glacier
C1 at normal C1 site (platforms are there)
C2 on SE Ridge
High point on SE Ridge.

Above C1 had cave where had stash of supplies but not a permanently fixed camp. Occupied it 1st on 17th and down 18th. Back up to cave 26th. On 27th at 7000m, avalanched an hour before Spaniards were higher up. This was highest point. Down to BC, up to C1, down, up to C2 again 7th Oct and again very nearly to 7000m but snow conditions so very dangerous (unconsolidated snow with 4-inch slab above it) came down again and asked to change route to Spaniards' route.

Permit for route change took 8 days and then storm hit, dumped huge amount of snow at BC where Burgess's tent buried in 1-1/2m of snow and would not have survived. Others had similar devastation from avalanching that fatally hit Island Peak, so climb finished when learned of Island Peak disaster.