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West Face of Mera Peak West: First ascent
by Kunihiko Kondo

The author got a rare inquiry to guide a woman to any 6000er where Makalu can be seen in the spring last year. He, at first did not take it as a serious request. Ms Michiko Kiyota, however, appeared to join his climbing in the spring through winter, and the author knew she would be competent to climb 6000ers, not walking up in Nepal.

The author happened to see a picture of a travel agency and found an unclimbed rock face on the West Face of Mera Peak W. It looked a little bit too tough for the guided climbing, but he expected a gentler route might be in the face. The equipment was limited, including 25 rock pitons, 5 ice pitons, 3 friends, three sets of ropes and fixed day foods and a tent; 100 kg of weight, but he determined to ferry all by himself. It was a hasty tour only with 28 days to door to door.

They were accompanied by 6 porters and Sherpa and a kitchen boy to arrive at Tangnag Kharka on March. He found a possible line through a couloir that runs up from the center toward left on the West Face. He made ABC (4600m) under the rock face next day. Climbing started on the 11th. He employed alpine style. Technically not so hard, but high winds never ceased whole day. Because he had to repeat up and down of a pitch for 3-4 times to ferry loads and clean the route, the climbing became quite a laborious one. The second night was on a terrace, and the third night was on a ledge where 1/3 of the tent was in the air. On the 14th, a big slab appeared and the progress slowed down. Next day the route was on the blue ice and the sixth night was beneath the ice ridge. The top was reached shortly before the noon of the 17th. His client could see not only Makalu, but Everest and Lhotse. They spent another night on the last biv terrace and continued abseiling for two days, returned to the BC on the 19th.