원정 개요

BC just above Langshisa Jhang (same as Japanese)
C1 near col at start of ridge
C2 at ridge running SE from summit 6145m and very near this summit
High point on SW Summit.

No time to go on to highest summit because had had to spend lot of time in KTM with govt routine and time running out. 2 members had chest problems and snowblindness and dropped out of climb. Jez had left on 20th Oct due to other commitments, so little personnel left. Had to fix rope on ridge above C1 and C2: 700m because very sharp narrow snow-ice and rock ridge between 11-22 Oct. 1.20m new snow in storm of 18-20 Oct followed by lot of avalanching but ridge route most affected except C1 covered by snow though tents not damaged. Beyond SW Summit it is posssible to reach highest summit but one 200m section vertical; there were serious seracs about midway between the summits. Perhaps only 2 more days climbing to highest summit and back to C2 in an alpine-style climb. All team members left BC 27th Oct except Jez, who had to leave early.