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Royal Dutch Alpine Club

Manaslu North · 1964 · 가을 (3) · Netherlands

원정 개요

Manaslu North I

Route South Ridge

Ascent - Huber Schriebl
Jan de Lint
Fons Driessen
Nima Tenzing Sherpa
Ila Tsering Sherpa

Letter from Jan Boon - Nov 6, 1974

Himlung is from the Nepal side not possible to climb. Avalanches at day and night time. To cross the Tibetan border, from where a route could done, is of course out of question. This the reason why we change from the Himlung to the Manaslu massiv. In 5 days we fix this. On Oct the 17th we arrive in the new basecamp.


Letter from Jan Boon - Oct 30, 1964

As you remember, I wrote you, the Himlung is from the Nepal side not possible to climb. Avalanches at day and night time. To cross the Tibetan border, from where a route is could done, is of course out of question. This is the reason, why we change from the Himlung to the Manaslu massiv. In 5 days we fix this. On Oct the 17th we arrive in the new base camp. Height 4250m. The 19th of Oct Camp I settled, 20th Camp II, 22th Oct Camp 3, 6000 meters, and C4 is a icefall from about 3000 ft. On the 25th Oct. Hubert Schriebl (Austria) which did the wonderful mean work, at midday reached the summit of the Manaslu with the two Sherpas Nima Tenzing and Jila Tsering, with the two Dutch members Jan de Lint and Fons Driessen.

(Name of the summit Manaslu North Peak, about 23,100 ft or higher). I self was 500 ft under the summit, only a hour later as Schriebl, as a storm came, with a very cold temperature. I was all the time filming, but on the moment as the storm starts was every thing impossible. (I think the storm was more) Schriebl, now exspect to bring me in a second climb also to the summit could it not do, otherwise the storm would smash us many thousand feet down. (The summit of the Manaslu North Peak is very steep).

Sherpas (taken from "Himalaya Hemel en Hel"):
Ang Tsering (sirdar)
Nima Tenzing
Ila Tsering
Tenzing Gyaltso
Nawang Dorje
Nima Dorje


John Boyle - 4 April 2010

John Boyle states that the claimed Dutch ascent of Manaslu North was disproved by Anders Bolinder [unclear whether higher 6994m peak is referred to or the lower 6991m subpeak].

  • 내부 원정 ID2964
  • 원본 EXPIDMANN64301
  • 대장Jan Boon
  • 루트 (Route)S Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6994m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jan BoonNetherlandsLeader---
Alfons J. (Fons) DriessenNetherlandsDeputy Leader성공--
Jan Gerard De LintNetherlandsClimber성공--
Florentin Charles DufourNetherlandsClimber---
Hubert SchrieblAustriaClimber성공--
Ila Tshering SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Nima Tenzing SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

De Lint, Jan G. · 1964 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Driessen, A. J. · 1964 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AJ
Himalaya Hemel en HelBoon, Jan · 1964 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546700/Asia-Nepal-Attempt-on-Himlung-Himal-and-Ascent-of-North-Peak-of-Manaslu · 1964 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1965_files/AJ%201965%20120-132%20Expeditions.pdf · 1964 · 웹사이트 (5) ·