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Gipuzkopako Lhotse-Pumori Expedition

Lhotse · 1991 · 가을 (3) · Spain

원정 개요

Arrieta, Azcona, Lasarte and Ulazia intended to scale Lhotse and arrived at that BC 27th Aug, established C1 2 Sept at 6000m; C2 6th Sept at 6500m by 4 members. 15th Sept down to BC and 16th Sept to Pumori directly to C1 (French reported 15th good conditions on Pumori despite accident later in the day).

Goni and Zulaika arrived Lhotse BC 4th Sept, but Zulaika got sick and both down to Pheriche. They returned to BC 17th for Pumori and tried for its summit 24th Sept and reached 100m from top, snow very deep, they were tired, moving slowly, cold in clouds.

Meanwhile successful Pumori men returned to Lhotse BC 20th Sept and made C3 23rd Sept at 7300m and down to BC because of wind.

Try for summit: left BC 28th Sept and 30th Sept up to C3 but too much wind to move up from C3 on 1st Oct as planned so down to C2. 3rd Oct again to C3 and 4th reached yellow band at 7650m: now only Arrieta and Azcona and Azcona now feeling unwell (no food) and climb finished for all except Arrieta who stayed at BC with Spanish Everest. Tried for summit on 10th Oct but did not get above C2 because of wind and he too gave up. 5 members left BC 7th Oct.

  • 내부 원정 ID2923
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT91302
  • 대장Juan Fernando Azcona
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도7650m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유질병 (7)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Juan Fernando (Juanfer) Azcona ArreguiSpainLeader---
Juan Carlos Arrieta LlopisSpainClimber---
Alfredo Goni TirapuSpainClimber---
Juan Lasarte OrmaetxeaSpainClimber---
Josu Ulazia ArrizabalagaSpainClimber---
Bittor ZulaikaSpainClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1991 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199219902/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Attempt · 1991 · 웹사이트 (5) ·