원정 개요

Guy Neithardt (Swiss) and Andrew Wielochowski (British) made the first ascent of the NE Ridge of Kusum Kanguru East and the fifth ascent of the summit on Sept 16. The two other members, Richard Backus (Canadian) and I (Welsh) twice reached 20,000 feet at the base of the summit pyramid of the NE Ridge. The climb was completed alpine-style in a one-week absence from Base Camp. The Base Camp was established on Sept 5 at 14,050 feet at the snout of the Kyashar Glacier. It was reached in two days from Monjo, a small village two hour's walk north of Namche Bazar. The route had six distinct sections. First we folloed the southeast moraine of the Kyashar Glacier to a steep ascent toward the col between Kusum Kanguru and Charpati. We bivouacked on Sept 12 at 17,000 ft. Second, we climbed the small but complex glacier descending from the col to a flat basin below the col. Third, we ascended an 800-foot 45-degree snow rib to the col with 650 feet of fixed rope. We camped in the col at 18,550 feet. Fourth, the NE Ridge presented rock and ice difficulties where we first followed ledges on the southeast and then in the centre of the ridge. Fifth, the steep face leading to the top of the NE Buttress (20,400 ft) provided more difficulties and complex route-finding on loose rock and variable snow. Sixth, the knife-edged snow ridge was followed to the East Summit (6356 meters, 20,854 ft)

David Hopkins, Association of British Mountain Guides and AAC