원정 개요

BC near Kalapattar
C1 at SW Ridge Col (start of difficulties)
C2 at 50m west side of ridge in crevasse.

On 18th made depot at C2 site for acclimatization. Had to dig a little to find it after snowstorm 19-20th. Between C1 and C2 steep mixed climbing. Japanese had done German's route and fixed rope but cut the ropes in places, Germans did some fixing where Japanese ropes could not be used.

Had problems with Japanese who should have been on South Ridge (Germans saw permitted route in tourism ministry) but were on German's SW Ridge when Germans arrived. Japanese BC right next to Germans BC. At end of their climb, Japanese opened their big unused gas bottles making Knappe vomit. Japanese cut small pieces from their fixed ropes; were generally unpleasant. French were very friendly.