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Email from Packard to Salisbury - Jan 15, 2004

Sorry I couldn't be so prompt in my reply to your second email - but it has been interesting hunting through my old diaries of the trip!

And would you believe it my diary is missing the pages between and Wednesday 5 July!!! I've reread Tilman's account, and that prompts my memory a little, as does my photo album. The whole lower mountain was climbed up slopes in persistent cloud, and there was no sense of a 'base' camp in ordinary climbing assault terms. A day and a halfs semi-fine weather at about 17,000 ft enabled us to dry out tents and clothes on the shaly moraine [Tilman's 2 July camp, and what you might term 'base camp']. From there we went up to 'Camp One' at about 19,700 ft, and thence, perforce a single tent 'Camp Two' was pitched at approx 20,200 ft on July 5. The next day, Emlyn Jones and I went on up only about 400 ft before retreating.

You ask about Sherpas - the four with the expedition carried up to Camp One, but my memory is that only two of them carried up to Camp Two. The Kang Guru venture was conceived to be a light weight reconnaisance.