원정 개요

BC at 4650m at normal site below icefall
C1 near Col
C2 on NE Ridge
High point on NE Ridge.

Icefall very difficult this season and needed 1000m fixed ropes so took long time to reach C1. Fixed rope to 7050m on 6th Oct and down to C2 and C1 for rest. 11th Oct up from C2 to make C3 but snow bridge at 6750m broken and rope gone and down to C1 and climb finished: no rope, no time and only making route for E Face who also came to NE Ridge so "no heart" to continue climb. An avalanche on 30th Sep caused by Americans took out Japanese rope. Snow bridge probably broken by opening of crevasse: many crevasses this season, many opening up while team was on mountain. Planned C3 at 7400m but not possible to fix rope this high to make summit attack from this camp. 3 left BC 14th Oct. Had taken 2000m of rope but did not have enough.