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From camp 2 days before BC, 2 South Ridge climbers (Marko and Stremfelj) and Rupar climbed Boktoh Peak (6142m) in one day up and down on East Face to NE Ridge on 10 April. Then to BC on 12 April. 19 April Marko and Stremfelj left BC for Talung and made biv at 6500m up NW face to West slopes. 20th to summit by Marko and 50m by Stremfelj below because strong winds and back to BC: left BC 8:30 am, on top 12:00 am and with good snow conditions but high winds (had been some hard ice between serac below biv and crevasses also, below with just one bridge) and back at BC 5:00 am same day, very tired.

Rested BC 5 days and left BC 26 April to South Ridge taking tent, 2 sleeping bags, stove and gas, 2 ropes and made 1st biv that afternoon 5:00 pm expecting just to eat but snowfell and stayed the night. 30th 6:00 am, left 4th biv, both on top 4:45 and 5:00 pm and down to C3 at 1:30 am 1 May. most difficult peak was from bottom of small face at 5550m to 6400m: very steep rock and some ice - fixed no ropes, so almost impossible to descend this way. Also very difficult hard and steep ice (and now had no climbing rope left) from top to bottom of couloir at 7200m to 7700m above C3.