원정 개요

Subsidiary peak Kangchenjunga Central summited on May 18 by Narcis Serrat Comerma and Furi Sherpa.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78

Leader of Yalung Kang expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing on Kangchenjunga Central Peak, which is not on permitted list and for which no permission given.

After expedition left Nepal, they wrote from New Delhi to say they had been on Kangchenjunga Central Peak.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 20 June 78

Spanish Yalung Kang leader said his team climbed Yalung Kang. LO's of both Yalung Kang and Kangchenjunga say climbed Yalung Kang. Sharma is meeting Sherpa summiters tomorrow to question him. So far only Poles say Spaniards climbed Kangchenjunga Central summit.


Dr. Browski, Polish Kangchenjunga Expedition - 16 June 78

Spaniards did not attempt to climb Yalung Kang, maybe because of snow conditions. Instead went up Central Summit of Kangchenjunga. Used Polish route to C3, one or 2 days behind Poles, using Polish fixed ropes, but when had climbed to their highest point, found they were not on the highest point of Central summit.

Leader had pneumonia. No accidents or serious frostbite.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 78

Scaled 18 May 16:20 hours by
1) Narchis Serrat Comerma
2) Furi Sherpa, 20, Junbesi

C4 16 May (altitude ?) returning to KTM; leave BC 22 May.


Prunes & Marti - 7 March 77

Expect others by truck from Terrasse. Were in Belgrade 24 Feb and after this no news: arrive Rorland 8-10 March and go direct to Biratnagar and Dharan at Dharan 12 March earliest.

5 Sherpas above BC and sirdar Ang Tsering.
Oxygen for climbing above 7500m in C4 and last day
Will follow 1975 spring German route on South Face to main peak.

3 weeks Dharan to BC about 3 weeks so early April. BC 5500m like Germans (with acclimatizations and with dump 4800m).

C4 just under couloir at about 7800m = highest camp probably
Summit about 15-20 May.
2 first camps - 10 days; 10 days about C2 -> C3; easy C3 -> C4, then wait for good weather.