원정 개요

BC in valley across river from Pheriche
ABC.1 southeast of mountain for SE Face attempt
ABC.2 at Tawoche Glacier for East Face attempt
High point 150m below final summit.

ABC at 5200m for SE Face climb and over next week got 2 clients to 6100m on route on which Duff and Black fixed rope for them but no higher camps pitched, then clients ran out of steam and they left BC 24th Sept leaving Duff and Black (no one from Ama Dablam joined them).

Black and Duff went back up and started from ABC 11 pm 1st Oct, climbed all night and got to 6350m on the final summit slope at 8:30 am on 2nd. Did not climb final slope of 150 vertical meters because of danger smow slabs. Immediately descended to BC which reached at 6 pm on 2nd. On 4th moved tent for E Face attempt, 1 km away from old ABC and placed it at same altitude at foot of Tawoche glacier, but now Duff suffering from effects of huge tapeworm. Scrambled 300m upwards on 6th and stayed in a camp there. 12th heard some Ama Dablam climbers missing and went to see; they weren't. But Duff getting worse, so no further climbing.