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Anglo-American Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam · 1987 · 가을 (3) · UK

원정 개요

BC at old Mingbo helicopter pad
C1 before pinnacles on South Ridge (2 rocky platforms)
High point at C1.

BC too low but at normal site lake had disappeared. Snow began falling that night had dumped 4 feet snow. All day 20th dug out BC tents. Now got colder and colder everyday and snow didn't melt and didn't consolidate.

Down to Pangboche for 1 week of waiting for snow to improve but had changed very little. Went up to C1 but in very deep snow and there was snow on polished rock slabs. C1 one tent destroyed and other collasped and they found on 28th where reached it. 2 members had placed an intermediate camp on 28th in case needed in descent. Spieczny left expedition after snowstorm: thought climb hopeless and his wife trekking in region.


O'Connor, Ama Dablam, Thyangboche - 22 Oct 1987

On the walk-in we passed a spring of nobbling climbers from the New Zealand expedition and a host of hollow-eyed Spaniards.

Our own base went up on the 14th and Camp 1 was in place by the 17th and then the bombardment began. Twenty four hours later we were under 4 ft of snow and spent the next couple of days digging out, rather than in.

Right now we are back in Thyangboche waiting for the snow to melt and hopefully for a chance at the climb, but the storm has been devastating.

Camps on Pumori have been wiped out. Lhotse Shar and the Burgesses likewise are buried and I understand are pulling out.

  • 내부 원정 ID281
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD87303
  • 대장William (Bill) O`Connor
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도5700m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
William H. (Bill) O'ConnorUKLeader---
Stephen Mark (Steve) AisthorpeUKClimber---
Porsteinn GudjonssonIcelandClimber---
Alison Jane HargreavesUKClimber---
Jan M. SpiecznyUSAClimber---
Dawa SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1987 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819901/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempt · 1987 · 웹사이트 (5) ·