원정 개요

BC at 4700m at normal BC side
C1 at 5350m at middle of glacier
C2 at NE Col (snow cave)
C3 on NE Ridge
C4 on NE Ridge
C5 at 7500m on NE Ridge.

E Face did not have as much snow and ice as expected: was rock face up MacIntyre route planned to climb and water running down it. After reached col, there was snow storm so down to BC. Reoccupied C2 on 24th Sept. 30th Sept caught in avalanche at 6600-6700m and took them 200m down N Face pulling out most of pitches of Japanese fixed ropes; no broken bones but bad knee and hip and rope burns so back to Col and on to BC. 6th Oct again up to col, C3 on 8th, so now up to 7500m on 15th summit bid from 7500m at 8:45 am in cloudy weather but not windy; went up couloir on N Face instead of right on ridge. James turned around at 7800m because didn't like snow conditions which looked dangerous. To 7500m on 16th, col on 17th and BC 18th.