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Nagano Mountaineering Association

Gangapurna · 1971 · 가을 (3) · Japan

원정 개요

Approached from the south via the Modi Khola and Sanctuary.

On October 15, Kiyoshi Shimizu, Takeshi Akahane and Girme Dorje Sherpa reached the summit from C4 at 2:15 pm at 2:15 pm and then returned to C4 at 7 pm where a second summit team of 4 was waiting. They planned continue down to C3 that day where 3 more teammates were waiting in support of the two summit teams, but heavy snows pinned all seven of them down at C4.

At 6 pm on Oct 16, the two higher camps failed to make radio contact with 3 Japanese climbers and 3 Sherpas waiting at C2. On the next day Oct 17, Girme Dorje and Pemba Norbu went down to C2 from C4 to investigate. The next morning Oct 18 at 8 am Girme reported by radio to C3 from the C2 site that the camp had completely disappeared, presumably swept away by an avalanche on the afternoon of Oct 16 and killing all 6 occupants.

After reporting this, Girme said that he and Pemba would return back up to C3, but the Japanese in C3 advised against since the route between the camps was avalanche prone. They were not seen or heard from again. It is presumed that they were swept away by an avalanche or fell into a crevasse.

  • 내부 원정 ID2787
  • 원본 EXPIDGANG71301
  • 대장Kiyoshi Shimizu
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge from S
  • 최고 도달고도7455m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 16명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Kiyoshi ShimizuJapanLeader성공--
Takeshi AkahaneJapanClimber성공--
Masuo HakoyamaJapanClimber--사망
Hirosuke KinoshitaJapanClimber---
Kazutomo KobayashiJapanClimber---
Naoki MiyasakaJapanClimber---
Iwao OgisoJapanClimber--사망
Kohei SasakawaJapanClimber/Exp Doctor--사망
Akira ShiobaraJapanClimber---
Kesato WakabayashiJapanClimber---
Ang Gyalzen SherpaNepalH-A Worker--사망
Ang Norbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Ang Pemba SherpaNepalH-A Worker--사망
Girme Dorje SherpaNepalSirdar성공-사망
Nawang Chottar SherpaNepalH-A Worker--사망
Pemba Norbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker--사망

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. · 1971 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Gangapurna, Autumn 1971Shimizu, Kiyoshi · 1971 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAC
Route maps and photos in English included in Japanese section
· 1971 · 잡지 (3) · MM
Gangapurna, Autumn 1971Shimizu, Kiyoshi · 1971 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAC
Includes route maps and photos in English
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197218504/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna · 1971 · 웹사이트 (5) ·