원정 개요

Taken from "The New Zealand Alpine Journal"

Before setting out for Sarpu again it was decided to spend about ten days attempting a peak named Lampu. On the 13th May McCallum and Gardner with four Sherpas set out to establish a camp on Lampu which is a little north of Mt. Ganesh Himal. Next day Gardner and one Sherpa commenced a reconnaissance of the peak, which eventually involved them in having to spend the night out. These two found a cave like hole at the foot of bluff about 20 feet high. The hole was full of icicles but it was welcome shelter. Following Gardner's return it was decided to press on and Camp II was established in a spot like an eagles's nest. It was thought that from Camp III we might have a chance of climbing this peak, but we were all deceived by the scale of the mountain and realised that it would be necessary to establish Camp IV. An attempt was made to do this without success. After a council of war at Camp III, where the temperature had dropped considerably, we then determined that we would make an attempt on the summit from here. We were running short of food and fuel and would soon have to return to Base. An early start was made next morning but by noon having negotiated a difficult snow ridge where the snow was the consistency of sugar. It was realized that the party could not possible hope to reach the summit in one day. There was very little food and fuel left and so we returned to Base Camp with something else attempted but still nothing done.