원정 개요

C2 at Cwm
TC3 at bottom of SW Face
C3 on SW Face
C4 on SW Face.

Icefall route made by Sherpas 16-19 Nov and then loads ferried to C1 by Sherpas. C1 and C2 really pitched only on 1 Dec with some Sherpas staying in C1 (+1 Japanese) while other Sherpas and members went directly to C2. Temporary C3 pitched at 6900m and removed after route made to permanent C3 (removed 11 Dec). Fixed 24 x 50m rope entire route from C4 to Summit Col; fixed no rope above South Summit's col (used "so many old ropes" on Hillary Step). No tents taken above C4, for above this "only traverse and after rope fixed, very easy and speedy." 1st summit bid was on 18th. 7 Dec snowfall and strong winds and 8 Dec morning strong wind but later in day weather changed and almost every day good weather on face, which is convex and not exposed to stronger winds of West Ridge, N Ridge and SE Ridge. In winter face is very easy after route making "although summit parties had strong winds above South Summit" (so much snow being blown about in swirling wind, could not see Makalu from main summit). Some rock falling because of strong wind and hand lamps and goggles damaged but no one hurt. 10 Sherpas ferried loads to C4 without oxygen but none slept in C4; in winter Sherpas don't like cold and danger. On 22 Dec -36 degrees at 5:00 am at C4; on top -45 degrees probably. Snowfall only on 7 Dec; face had no snow at all except little in snow band (above and right of C4) which is below yellow band; snow that fell on 7th was quickly blown away. Routes followed exactly same as Bonington's.

50 ladders placed in Icefall and 2000m rope.

Oxygen:
C3 all members and all Sherpas sleeping
C3 -> C4 all members, no Sherpas
C4 & to top all members (no Sherpas stayed at C4 or went above)
96 Russian oxygen bottles taken to BC; 65 used

Most difficult section was couloir below S Summit for 100m; very technical rock from 8500m to 8600m altitude.

Success this time (1) made complete camp at 8350m (24 yrs ago did not have light, compact platform which brought now); (2) members well acclimatized and in good health; acclimatization was from autumn ascent of Cho Oyu: then 3 weeks rest and climb of Pokalde; (3) all 7 climbing members had been on same route in winter before in 1991, knew route and its problems; (4) "high pressure" to succeed. "Now I can go back to Japan" said Yagihara.

Could not climb Everest in winter without oxygen because of cold; would lose all fingers and toes.

No Sherpa problems this time: in 1991 2 months on mountain, this time only 3 weeks.

On summit, found US Spring 1992 prism standing, other's poles lying on snow.
13 tons of supplies to BC for 50 people:

7 Japanese climbers
2 Japanese at BC
28 HA Sherpas
2 sirdars (1 BC, 1 C2)
3 cooks (2 BC, 1 C2)
5 kitchen boys at BC
3 mailrunners

All seven climbing members after autumn Cho Oyu ascent rested 3 weeks in KTM or Chitwan so when went to Khumbu for Everest climb, first went to 5800m Pokalde to re-acclimatize to that altitude and thus be able on 1 Dec to go from BC straight through to C2. Akiyama and Terada supervised loads to BC and icefall route-making while Pokalde being successfully scaled.