원정 개요

Kurt Diemberger - 24 Oct 78

Correct that he and Mazeaud were at least 10 minutes behind Afanassieff and Yaeger reaching summit, more like 30 minutes probably. Clear weather, but no tripod visable. Oxygen dump about 8350m or 8400m.


Mazeaud - 23 Oct 78

French C3 and C4 on Everest destroyed by avalanching. German at C3 hurt but not so bad.


Diemberger - 20 Oct 78

He and last of French came by helicopter this evening from BC. All off mountain today or tomorrow and all safe, no frostbite. "Incredible." Many German members but not into Icefall. Kirchberger and Ritter with oxygen in very strong wind; reached BC afternoon and evening.

Lhotse: up Everest, I go for Everest. I go up Lhotse, I go for Messner; for others, too tired after Everest.


Herrligkoffer & Hillmaier at Airport - 18 Oct 78

Hillmaier, Kustermann and Herrligkoffer on today in KTM.
Yesterday last German party to top:
Kullmann
Ritter without oxygen from BC (Diemberger says Ritter used oxygen)
Think succeeded; good weather yesterday.

Hillmaier: at 5 pm on summit, very late; very much snow on top, we were 1 meter higher than earlier summiters; could not find tripod.

Hillmaier: I am best friend of Mazeaud; made camps with Mazeaud; no French-German quarrels. Hillmaier went with German group to top because Sherpas went down and he had rope they needed for Hillary Step. Climbing Everest not easy, very different from South Summit and Hillary Step.

Herrligkoffer: 2 Sherpas and Engl no oxygen at any time, like Ritter.

Miss Wanda not so strong and needed oxygen; she comes to BC today.

Mazeaud came tomorrow or day after (capt says Mazeaud today).

No more attempts on Everest and Lhotse.
Not true camps destroyed on Lhotse face.

Afanassieff and Jaeger skiing not in one smooth run: from 8200m to C2 in 1 hour; C2 to C1 two hours and stayed night at C1.

Herrligkoffer: made publicity for German-French friendship. Mazeaud and Herrligkoffer have good relations.

Left South Col yesterday 8:00 am for top
Hillmaier: Today storm coming from North Lhotse

So much time - defeat on 9 Oct very bad for morale.


Capt. Upadhyaya, RNAC flight - 18 Oct 78

Flew this morning to Pheriche for HRA cargo and returned 10:45 am. Weather exceptionally clear in Everest area and no wind.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 17 Oct 78

Seven on top:
Sigfried Hupfauer
Allenbach
Klimek
Ang Kami
Mingma
Ang Dorje
with oxygen in 6 hours from South Col, half hour on summit, reached top at 13:45 hours yesterday; are still now coming down to C2 at 17:15 hours. They are all well.

Left South Col yesterday at 7:40 am and still coming down to C2 now; last night probably at Col. This makes 14 total on top.

Afanassieff and Jaeger yesterday went up to 8250m and skied from there to C1 at 6000m; now in BC.

2 Germans left South Col this am:
Georg Ritter
Bernd Kullmann


Shailendra Raj Sharma - 17 Oct 78

Herrligkoffer arrive KTM tomorrow am

No contact BC-South Col today. BC to C2 Ok and as of 2:00 pm today no news has reached C2 about yesterday's attempt. No contact from BC above C2 today. No definite news others going up, but LO expected yesterday's group to be last attempt. Mazeaud reached C2 yesterday and arrived at BC today.

C3 and C4 destroyed by avalanche between 1st German assault and French assault: when Germans came down on 15th they found both camps missing.

Germans were to reach C2 about 2:00 pm today. Now (2 pm) celebrating at BC heavily. Yesterday Germans (all 6 in team) were seen last evening going up 4:00 pm from C2.

Weather yesterday and today good. Probably no more French will go up: Walter Cecchinel has leg problem, Raymond Despiaux too tired. J-F Mazeaud not supposed to go to summit from very beginning.

3:30 pm: still no news at BC about Germans team of 6 climbers.
Mazeaud not coming to KTM on 18th; in BC all happy - very good weather.

Herrligkoffer to Germany on 19th.
Mazeaud not decided about Lhotse.


Shailendra Raj Sharma - 16 Oct 78

Today's summit party left Col at 7:30 this morning. No further news as of 4-5 pm to Sharma. Walkie-talkies of Germans not working, so climbers must reach Col before success or failure can be known.


Doug Scott - 14 Oct 78

German and French BC and C1 camps next to each other
German and French C2's 30m apart but maybe necessary because of terrain.
C3's are 200m apart with French C3 200m lower than German
C5 : German C4 is the Col
C4 : French C4 is at 7600m
C5 : French C4 at Col

Scott was at Everest BC on 11-12th - left 12th am

9th Mazeaud, Diemberger and Hillmaier reached Col and couldn't find tents, oxygen, etc,; so deep in snow (tents perhaps not pitched) so came down after dark.
10th very windy - no movement up - Mazeaud to C2.
11th Mazeaud and Diemberger left C2 starting up with intention of going to Col that day, picking up member/Sherpas on way up.

Mazeaud not permitting any other French to summit first; wants this to make him politically prominent again. "Not healthy really." Mazeaud also trying to be the leader controlling the logistics; can't do this from the front.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78

Yesterday Mack, Hillmaier and Engl reached summit:
Mack 4:30
Hillmaier 5:00
Engl 5:15
Started from South Col at 10:00 am yesterday. Engl without oxygen from Col.

Came down to South Col between 8:00 and 9:00 pm and today left Col today for C2. All three in good condition.

Mazeaud, Diemberger, Nicholas Jaeger and Jean Afanassieff left Col with oxygen at 4:30 am today going up - may reach summit between 1:00 and 2:00 today.


Shailendra Raj Sharma - 14 Oct 78, 5:45 pm

Mack, Hillmaier and Engl left so Col at 6:30 am with Mazeaud and Diemberger and Ang Dawa. Returned to south Col at 5:35 pm today with Sherpa Ang Dawa. They were seen descending at 4:15 by Afanassieff who was at Col. They had reached 8450m and dumped oxygen there and turned back because of lack of oxygen to go to summit and return.

Mack, Hillmaier and Engl left other at 8450m to continued up to summit. No one knows by 5:35 pm whether they got to top or not. Not seen from C2 or Col as walkie-talkies not working.

Mazeaud, Afanassieff, Yaeger and Diemberger with Sirdar Pemba Norbu will start 4:00 am tomorrow for summit and 5 Sherpas will go with then carrying oxygen to 8450m. Mazeaud expects reach Col at 12:00-1:00 tomorrow. Today good weather up to 5:35 pm as high as 8450m.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 8 Oct 78

Austin (French charge) received following news from BC by radio today:
Perfect weather since yesterday morning at BC and C3 - no wind.

1st assault team, P Mazeaud, Diemberger and Wehrs, now at C3; plan to reach South Col tomorrow morning and if weather is good, will go to summit on 10th or 11th from Col. French will try without camp above Col if weather is good.

2nd assault team, 3 Germans and 1 French (names not given) from Col will divide with same to Everest summit and same to Lhotse summit.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78

On summit took pix and raised flags of French and Nepal. On top:
P. Mazeaud and Diemberger 1:45 pm
Afanassieff, Jaeger 1:35 pm today

Weather excellent on Everest, their health also good and from summit Mazeaud thanked HMG and his collegues. 4 left summit 2:55 pm today. No news of other attempts.


Sailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 14 Oct 78

Yesterday 3 pm Diemberger and Hillmaier, Mack, Engle and Ang Dawa also decided to turn around and go up. Had not reached C4 before this decision at 3:00.

Allenbach and Mazeaud reached Col. Mazeaud there when others arrived whether till 3:30 pm today excellent with no wind.

This am between 6:00 and 7:00 all in South Col; left col to go up to summit without camp on ridge in 2 parties.
1) Mazeaud left
Diemberger first
Hillmaier
2) others three no news from there since their departure from Col now seen from C2 by 3:30 pm today.
expected they would reach summit 5:00 pm. They have Germans and French walkie-talkie with them.

Tomorrow
French Jean Afanassieff
" Nicholas Jaeger
Sirdar Pemba Norbu Sherpa
reached Col 3:00 today and will try for summit tomorrow am. They also not receiving news from summit parties, but weather at Col excellent.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 78

Pierre Mazeaud and 2 Sherpas have gone up trying again to reach Col today - left at 2:00 pm on 2nd try (from where, not given).

Diemberger and Hillmaier are in C3; they did not join Mazeaud again today.

3 Sherpas who did not get to Col came down and 2 of them then went up with Mazeaud in afternoon.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 78

Germany 1) Robert Allanbach
2) Josef Mack
3) + Sherpas
Reached near south Col yesterday but health bad and they returned to C4. Yesterday evening and today to C2. There is no summit attempt today because no one reached Col except 3 Sherpas. These 5 should have gone to summit today.

P Mazeaud, Diemberger, Hillmaier should attempt summit tomorrow as per yesterday plan. But at 12:30 LO reported C2 said they stopped at about 200m below South Col for rest and J-F Mazeaud saw them stop and then descend. Weather bad at South Col, strong winds. Others to go up tomorrow or next day from C2 and C3. Others:

Fr Walter Cecchinel
Fr Nicholas Jaeger
Fr Raymond Despiaux
Ger Sigi Hupfauer
Ger Hans Engl
Ger Willi Klimek

Wanda should have gone up today with Allenbach and Mack but did not; reason not known.

Herrligkoffer said P Mazeaud must go first.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 12 Oct 78

13 members (5 Fr and 8 Gers) left C3 this am for South Col and expected some will reach Col tonight, some tomorrow am. Those who reach today may try for summit tomorrow if weather permits. Weather good today in C3.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

P Mazeaud, Diemberger and 3 members of 1st assault team reached Col yesterday and had to come down in evening and reached C3 at 6:30.

Left Col because wind 100 km/hr in col and heavy snow; reached C2 12:30 pm today.

Could not stay at C4 yesterday because that camp covered with snow. This evening team will decide who will make attempt on Everest summit. It's by Herrligkoffer that younger members will be included in next assault team. Whether camp will be pitched above col not yet decided. Will attempt Everest only up 20th Oct; then will abandon says Herrligkoffer.

Lhotse will be attempted only after Everest. LO thinks Diemberger and Mazeaud will not go up again and only 2 assault teams instead of 5 teams earlier planned.


M Austin, French Charge - 5 Sept 78

Austin helicoptered to Everest BC yesterday morning. Herrligkoffer and Kustermann and French climbers were there. P Mazeaud and Wanda were up making C2. Body of Germans expedition were at Lobuche, reaching BC probably today.

No wind at all, no plume on Everest; fine weather at BC equipment and no broadcast permitted until French embassy gives Ok and French govt also gives.

Satellite used is French-German govt's owned.


SR Sharma - 1 Sept 78

French Everest team tried to contact French embassy from Syangboche 6-7 days ago but equipment didn't work.

HMG has refused permission to broadcast to France from BC; may only transmit news to French embassy, KTM, who will pass on news to Tourism. Tourism will first censor and release to press, then allow embassy to send censored news to France. French radio to pass along any news to Deutsche Welle, according to agreement between them.


Rai, Annapurna Trekking - 21 Aug 78

Herrligkoffer, Miss Kustermann and Wanda flew to Lukla in helicopter on 19 Aug.


Herrligkoffer - 16 Aug 78

Walters and Daum helicopter to Lukla, arrive 27 Aug.

Main group arrive BC 3 Sept: Walters and Daums, who were in Andes, rest in Munich now; reach BC few days after other.

3 scientists: Herrligkoffer, Kustermann, Laube and Mrs Walter climbed 3700m mountains including Lenin.

Have heard nothing from Karojin - making no plans for him in Nepal.

Wanda climbed Gasherbrum with Alison Chadwick. Wanda was leader of expeditions which also climbed G-II. Gasherbrum III was highest not first climbed by women - and II first 8000m peak with only women.

Wanda, born 4/2/43, divorced, no children, electronics engineer.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 Aug 78

Herrligkoffer's Germans will be permitted to climb Lhotse only if Mazeaud applies to HMG on their behalf.


Mahabir Ale, Tourism - 9 Aug 78

Permission to climb Lhotse this season has been given to French members only, not to Germans team.


Herrligkoffer - 9 Aug 78

15 HA climbers
3 scientists incl Herrligkoffer
1 Cameraman
3 German "Sherpas"

German members total 22. 12 today - 4 arrive after 2 weeks.

French including have started climbing by time Germans arrive. French and Germans operate separately but make routes together.

Germans leave soon as possible; stay at Narayani
1st summit attempt on Everest 1st week if Oct; prepare loads and camps up to C2 during monsoon period.
1 German woman, Miss Walter, and husband
1 Polish lady Wanda Rutkiewicz, a deputy leader, Gasherbrum III summiter 1975
Germans too will broadcast to Europe
Germans = 7 tons baggage

Intended orginally for Germans to climb by different route than French but SW Face many Sherpas [Bonington had <60] and HerrligKoffer couldn't raise enough money for so many Sherpas.

Germans take only 10 Sherpas. He thought at one time could not afford any Sherpas, hence 3 Germans load carriers.

German members also may climb Lhotse.
(Herrligkoffer asked how many men with Mazeaud)


SR Sharma - 2 Aug 78

French part of Everest expedition permitted to scale Lhotse also; Germans not today (permit given 2-3 days ago). Both French and Germans via South Col only on Everest; if want to use other route must request permission to do so.


Mazeaud - 1 Aug 78

French members leave ahead of Germans - arrive 26 July and leave 2 Aug.
Germans arrive 9 Aug including Herrligkoffer and stay at Taragaon; leave KTM about 19 Aug.

French by bus to Lamosangu and walk in; few days at Thyangboche and Pheriche.

One expedition, same route: South Col route with 6 camps above Base. Herrligkoffer is leader, Mazeaud head of French party; very good friends: better than with Dyhrenfurth. French to be in BC 24-25 Aug and C1 early Sept.

Germans reach BC 5-10 Sept - where French making C1 and ferrying loads
use oxygen 7000m for climbing.

21 HA Sherpas for French
10 HA Sherpas for Germans
---
31 all above BC


Winkler - 25 March 76

Winkler will be with Herrligkoffer on Everest in 1978. Herrligkoffer and Mazeaud come at same time but Herrligkoffer goes to old SW Ridge route and Mazeaud to South Col route.

Everest exped stayed:
French - Taragaon
Diemberger - C/O Dr. La Roche of French embassy
First Germans - Diamond Hotel (near KTM Guest House)
Herrligkoffer - Narayani
Walters - Shanker
Daums - Mayalu