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Shi Zhang-Chun

Everest · 1975 · 봄 (1) · China

원정 개요

Samdrup (Tibetan Manaslu leader) - 3 April 96

Chinese Everest in 1975 2 bodies were found:
1) on East Rongbuk Glacier at 6400m, and
2) on North Ridge at 8100m (clothes touched by Wang Honbas)

No old bodies found - 1 member of '75 team died


Letter from TMA - March 20, 1993

Wu Zhoung-Yue, a deputy political commissar, who had climbed to 8500m on Everest in 1960 and to the summit of Xixabangma in 1964, now on May 4, 1975, got to 8100m and then had a fatal fall.


Hisano, 3-nation Everest - 27 Feb 88

Chinese Everest 1975.
About 500 members altogether (as in 1960) including:
Over 200 soldiers for Transport from BC (5000m) to ABC (6500m)

BC staff
doctors
communications personnel, journalist

Climbers: 150 total
70 above North Col (7000m)
35 above 7600m

Really a military exercise - Chinese sports committees are established for military fitness.

Note: For the Himalayan Database, allocate 134 at 3:1 (Hired:Members ratio)
35 climbing members
99 hired members


Chinese Mountaineering Expedition Successfuly Ascends World's Highest Peak - Qomolangma Feng

Lhasa May 27, 1975 -- Just as the Chinese people are engaged in an enthusiastic study of the theory of the dictatorship of the proleteriat, a heartening news was flashed in from China's southwestern frontiers: nine members (one woman and eight men) on the Chinese mountaineering expedition successfully ascended the qomolangma feng (mount jolmo lungma)...the highest peak in the world...from its northern slope at 14:30 hours peking time today.

The first Chinese woman who stepped on the highest point on earth is Phanthog of Tibetan nationality, deputy leader of the expedition. The eight male summiteers are: Sodnam Norbu (Tibetan), Darphuntso (Tibetan), Kunga Pasang (Tibetan), Tsering Tobgyal (Tibetan) and Ngapo Khyen (Tibetan). Their sterling performance today followed the pioneering feat of three other Chinese mountaineers, Wang Fu-chou, Konbu of Tibetan nationality and Chu Yin-hua who reached the summit from its forbidding northern face on May 25, 1960.

This tremendous victory for China's mountaineering movement was won as a result of the king attention of Chairman Mao and the party central committee, the warm support given by people to surmount the numerous difficulties by relying on their own collective wisdom and strength. It is a measure of the new level attained by Chinese mountaineers after being tempered in the great proleterian cultural revolution and the movement to criticize Lin Piao and Confucius. The first ascent of the peak from the north by a Chinese woman climber in particular has brought into relief the invincible revolutionary spirit of Chinese woman after repudiating the reactionary fallacy of "man being superior to woman" preached by Lin Piao and his master Confucius.

Setting out from the final assault camp pitched at 8680m above sea level this morning, the nine Chinese climbers reached the summit after a strenuous six and a half hours march, filled with a sense of pride and joy, they radioed to base camp at 14:30 Peking time that all of them had successfully reached thte pinnacle of the earth. They unfurled a five star red flag, erected a three metre high red metal surveying pole with the Chinese characters meaning "the mountaineering expedition of the people's republic of China," took photos and shot lengths of film about the summit, measured the thickness of the snow accumulation, and undertook radio remote-controlled cardiogram tests. These created highly important conditions and provided invaluable data for Chinese scientific workers to establish the exact height of the Qomolangma Feng and carry out relevant research.

Activities of the expedition started in mid-March this year. The mountaineering expedition set up their base camp at Rongbuk monastery 5000 meters above sea level and, in the course of four acclimatization marches, built five altitude camps at 5500m, 6000m, 6500m, 7000m and 7600m above sea level respectively. then during the fifth march beginning from May 17, they built camp six and the final assault camp at 8200m and 8600m above sea level respectively. During their acclimatization marches and the final assault on the summit, the Chinese climbers, with lofty aspirations to win honour for the great leader chairman Mao and the great socialist motherland, defied hardships and death, surmounted difficulties and pressed forward valiantly, braving the rarity of oxygen severe cold under 30 degrees below zero centigrade, altitude, winds of whole gale and greater force, they overcame a host of difficulties on their march and triumphantly fulfilled this glorious and arduous tast with indomitable heroic spirit of daring to struggle and win and after undergoing all kinds of hardships.

This expedition had tremendous support in various forms from the Tibet autonomous region, the Tibetan people, many provinces, municipalities and the autonomous regions in other parts of the country and the people's liberation army. Members of the summit party and personnel engaged in weather forecasting, scientific survey and study, transport and communications and other activities, under the leadershiop of the expedition party committee, worked in close coordination and finally won this brilliant victory.

  • 내부 원정 ID2762
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER75102
  • 대장Shi Zhang-Chun
  • 루트 (Route)N Col-NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 32명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Zhang-Chun ShiChinaLeader---
Ching HsuChinaDeputy Leader---
Fu-Chou WangChinaAdvisor---
BalzhanChinaClimber---
Cedan Zhoma (Tseten Doma)ChinaClimber---
Cering BalzhonChinaClimber---
Cering Yangjan (Tsering Yangchen)ChinaClimber---
ChamcoChinaClimber---
Da Phuntsok (Darphuntso)ChinaClimber성공사용-
DasangChinaClimber---
GayloChinaClimber---
Guisang (Kuisang)ChinaClimber-사용-
Kunga Pasang (Gonga Basang)ChinaClimber성공사용-
Lhotse (Louze)ChinaClimber성공사용-
Mingma Zhoma (Mingma Doma)ChinaClimber---
Ngapo Khyen (Abu Qin)ChinaClimber성공사용-
PasangChinaClimber---
Phantog (Phandu, Pando)ChinaClimber성공사용-
Rinchen Phuntsok (Rinchen Phinzo)ChinaClimber-사용-
Samdrup (Samdruk)ChinaClimber성공사용-
Sonam NorbuChinaClimber성공사용-
Tsering TobgyalChinaClimber성공사용-
WangmoChinaClimber---
ZhasangChinaClimber---
ZhogarChinaClimber---
Huai-Mei ChouChinaClimber---
Zong-Yue GuoChinaClimber-사용사망
Sheng-Fu HouChinaClimber성공사용-
Ling-Ling HsingChinaClimber---
Lian-Man LiuChinaClimber---
Hong-Bao WangChinaClimber---
Bo-Yu XiaChinaClimber-사용-

출처·참고문헌

· 1975 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Another Ascent of the World's Highest Peak - QomolangmaChina · 1975 · 단행본 (1) ·
Hawley, Elizabeth · 1975 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Everest - North Ridge ClimbedPaine, John & Wilson, Ken · 1975 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/peoplesdaily/article-3588837/Failure-not-end-Amputee-climber-65-inspiration-repeated-attempts-reach-Everest-summit-despite-failing-four-times-41-years.html · 1975 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427500/Asia-Tibet-Everest-More-on-Earlier-Chinese-Expeditions · 1975 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197651600/Asia-Nepal-Chinese-Ascent-of-Mount-Everest · 1975 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Nine Who Climbed Qomolangma Feng · 1975 · 잡지 (3) · MM
New Information on Chinese Ascents of Mount Everest · 1975 · 학술지·저널 (2) · IM