원정 개요

18th Oct big storm came up and those who wanted Tichy route realized Japanese with Chinese permit would leave mountain (and they did) and 5 left ABC for Tibet on 24th Oct; had not returned to BC (sent word to sirdar to evacuate BC, 5 would be behind) but took direct route to Nangpa La. "Quite an adventure" at this stage. Camped one night before pass, one night on Nangpa Glacier, crossed Nangpa La 29th Oct and camped around the corner (to E). 30th Oct were at traditional C1 on Tichy route and camped there. 1st Nov Berg took rest day at 21,800 ft just below Hillary's icefall in 1952, while Mark Udall and Gustke (these 2 were exhausted and very cold) they returned met other 2 and all 4 descended to 21,800 ft. Berg kept on up to highest point ("about as alpine-style a climb as you can make it"). No fixed lines. From 10 days carried all gear they had. Berg climbed 5000 ft in 8 hrs 45 minutes, broke his own trail, reached 21,800 ft at 2:30 pm, had to erect tent collapsed by winds that had actually made ascent possible by blowing away snow. All 5 returned to Namche on 6th Nov (in Thami midnight of 5th and woke up tea shopkeeper for boiled potatos). Were unsupported on this adventure and Berg especially so.

Dump site at 17,700 ft of point 5885m at base of glacier. On 1st route got to 6500m and then route looked very hard for load carrying: horizontal knife-ridge into large snow feature which seemed to be shifting. So tried another approach and on this appeared difficult section above. They went to C1 for rest and storm hit and it ended all thought of discovering whether section above was negotiable. Big snowstorm hit 18-20 Oct and had to dig for 3 days to keep tents Ok and to ferry loads to place below BC.

Climbing route: South Arrete/Ridge and South Spur, well west of Polish route.

Did not admit in 1987 to ascent because:
(1) Wanted to protect name of Udall's father, a US Senator, and
(2) Did not want to encourage others to violate rules (get into trouble).