원정 개요

Ad Carter - Aug 3, 1993

The leader of the 1964 and 1966 Chinse Everest teams was Xu Jin.


Samdrup, Wang Jia & letter from TMA - March 1993

Ma Gao-Shu, a soldier in the Tibet Military Command, in May 1966 reached a campsite at 7790m, and in his descent lost his footing when was at 7450m and fell to his death. He was buried in the Xigazi (Shigatse) Cemetary of Revolutionary Martyrs.

Following the West's doubts about the success of the Chinese ascent of Everest in 1960, there would be another expedition in 1967. They would climb to the summit and would also carry out other assignments including determining the exact height of Everest. In preparation for this, teams would go to Everest in 1964 and 1966. The climbing in all three years would in general be the same as that followed in 1960 and by their British predecessors: to the North Col and from there to the North Ridge.

The spring 1964 party was composed of about 20 climbers who were led by either Shi Zhang-Chun, the leader in 1960, or Xu Jin. Their tasks were to determine the exact climbing route, carry up supplies of oxygen for the final ascent, and demonstrate their climbing abilities to the selectors of the 1967 team. Six or seven in this party reached a high point of 8100m.

The group who went to Everest in 1966 were an entirely different sort. Instead of being mountaineers as in 1964, these were mostly soldiers with no climbing experience who were now ordered to go to the mountain by the leaders of the Cultural Revolution, which was in its early phase. There were 60 altogether, 20 of whom were to do serious climbing while the rest were to conduct scientific research up to about 6500m. They got to a high point of a campsite at 7790m but were not capable of going any higher.

Then the Cultural Revolution took a different line and all further mountaineering was suspended.