원정 개요

Giroud - 30 May 64

Not to summit of Dorje Lhakpa because bad weather by long ridge and very difficult one at 5100m right to top nearly 7000m. 6300m highest point reached 10 May because of snow. Then to Gangchempo nearly 6400m where Darbellay and Rey went to 100m of top on Sat 16, but not to top because too difficult: steepness and on final ridge straight up and had not necessary equipment. Made camp at 5700m.

Leave KTM thus 4th directly to Geneva
No accidents


Shaftesbury - 18 May 64

Left Langshisa Wednesday 13th. Planned assault for Sunday 10th but Saturday snowed heavily. Of last 800m, 500 65-degree ice ridge. So no question of their going up Sunday, and hoping for summit on Thursday. Tuesday and Wednesday also bad weather and Thursday looked bad too.

Shaftesbury leaving here thus via Calcutta. His highest point was C3 at 5600m. In London 26th or 27th from Switzerland.

Other expedition leaving base camp 24th no matter what weather, etc. So have just weekend and 1st half of this week. Arriving Kathmandu 30th. This peak technically very difficult indeed and bad weather prevented quick conquest.

All is well here, but we have chosen a very tough mountain to crack. Dorje Lhakpa at 6988m, C1 is at 4720m, almost 12 km up the Trulpaiku Glacier from here, C2 is at 5280m, another 3 hours further up underneath the mountain itself on the righthand Col. From there to the summit is a very difficult ice ridge up which we have so far established C3 at 5600m, but we aim to push that camp up to 5900m next week, having relaxed this weekend. Two members have already reached that height. We do not yet know if 4th camp will be necessary. I might come back to KTM on May 19th if successful.


Himalaya (?) - 24 April 64

Set base camp 20 April and all well; expect make decision upon which peak to tackle in 4-5 days time. 24 May from base camp to KTM.


Shaftesbury - 10 April 64

Shaftesbury head of expedition, 26, arrive May 22nd; single, Dorset, merchant banking for 3 years; now looking after farm at Winborne St. Giles. Climbing all in Alps for past 5 years mainly trekking, but no outstanding rock climbing, but has gone over 4000 meters experiencing all sorts of snow conditions

Giroud leader of expedition, Swiss, professional guide from Verbier, 32, single; with Rey did record climb Aiguille du Plan North Face last year: 18 x 4000m peaks over and over again, all in Alps; unmarried.

Darbellay, 29, unmarried, Orsieres, professional guide; second north face of Matterhorn and only man to do north face Eiger solo (last August); all climbing in Alps.

Rey, 31, unmarried, professional guide from Martiny Crois; very good on ice, all Alps: Grand Capucin de Tacul and 1st North Face of Dru.

Sherpas (all Nepali except Lopsang)
1. Sirdar, Sonam Girmi
2. Cook, Ang Tenzing
3. Lopsang, Darjeeling
4. Ang Nijima
5. Lhakpa Gelbyu

Hoping leave Sunday afternoon via Trisuli
40 porters


Shaftesbury - 12 April 64

Langtang Himal, Jugal Himal watershed. Base at Langshisa towards meeting of Langtang Glacier and Trulpaiku glacier. Will then do recon and determine which of 5 peaks: permission to area of 5 and if successful may ask for 2nd.

Gangchempo (Fluted Peak) - 6397m
Dorje Lhakpa - 6988m
Leongpo Gang (climbed by Japanese) - 7083m
Dome Blanc (Lambert climbed) - 6830m
Pemthang Ri - 6842m


Shaftesbury - 2 April 64

Earl of Shaftesbury
Ami Giroud
Michel Darbellay, climbed Eiger north face
Michel Rey

About Friday 10th to mountain if equipment arrives by Tuesday from Calcutta and with other 2 members. (2 days route made to base at 4450m via Trisuli to Sanche. 1 week recon out of base and put C1 at 5030m. Climb summit by 15th May (10-15). Lord Shaftesbury to C1 and so if can go on to summit as not so expert as others and might delay them.

Also hopes one Sherpa on top; 3 Sherpas and 1 sirdar and 1 cook, 40 porters, one ton of equipment including its case.

Climbing Dome Blanc only; Lambert conquered in 1955
This first time in Himalayas for all 4 members.

Dome Blanc conquered by Raymond Lambert about 6-7 years ago says Charles Wylie; later a man named Wallace from Kenya apparently reached a lesser peak of the mountain.

Expedition arriving in April.