원정 개요

Nomura - 29 April 70

5 meters below Dhaulagiri VI traversed 17th April officially actually reached summit.

Base camp 1 April, C6 16 April just below summit Dhaulagiri VI. 17th continued north beyond Dhaulagiri VI summit along very sharp ridge. Unable find space even one tent on ridge and unable make next camp and turned back on 17th to C6 (this party S Nakamura and Kimura, with Yamamura and Kawazu in support). Returned to base 19th April and left base 20th.

Decided this approach to Dhaulagiri IV probably not possible, as also Austrians route apparently not possible; perhaps north possible. Could see Austrians route with binoculars from furthest point reached, but could see no tents or other evidence: message to Austrians: could see nothing from distance about 700m from Austrians highest camp.

All members leave Sat on Thai.

Wants try Dhaulagiri IV from north, but not permitted to try from north; hopes after 2-3 years may be permitted.

All members well; no accidents, no illness.

Nomura yesterday to KTM
Today Norkamura
Iwasa
Yamamura
Kawazu
Kimura
All others probably later today


Nomura - 15 March 70

Dhaulagiri IV base camp in khola which is uppper Ghustang Khola
C4 at point 23,846 ft.
C5 between 23,846 ft and 23,320 ft.
C6 about 7000m between 23,320 ft and Dhaulagiri IV summit.

Japanese route may join Austrian route about where "O" is of point 23,320 ft on Harka Gurung's map.


Nomura - 7 March 70

6 members arrive today, 2 already here.
Different route from Austrians SW Face via Kaphe Khola
Leave KTM charter plane about 15 March; leave 16 reach base camp after
14 days at 4100m.
If possible 6-7 camps with highest at 7000m summit lst week April with 2-3
attacks on summit.
Last autumn recon (not by Nomura).
Long distance and height altitude from C5 to summit, maybe 6 km long
2 Sherpas only; 35 porters to base; very light expedition "we have confidence."
Look for Austrians as their climbers request.