원정 개요

Dhaulagiri IV not summitted, but 3 scaled Dhaulagiri VI

Otsu - 3 March 80

Correct that 3 members his 1972 autumn expedition went to summit of Dhaulagiri VI. BC was on Kaphe Glacier, southwest of Dhaulagiri VI.


Otsu - 5 Nov 72

All arrive by bus today.

Farthest point reached: 200m north of C6 on very narrow steep ridge.

Fujita, Yashuma and Sato established C6 on 13 Oct and 200m north on 14 Oct.

Could have made summit this route, but needed 15 days more and only 5 days his light food left and on 15 Oct, decided stop climbing. No clue of Austrian expedition which approached from eastern side of North-South Ridge.

Akimoto, Yashuma and Shindo heard like yeti voice from C2 in middle Sept at 9 pm to 10 pm; like human voice calling, but no footprints found next am. This route possible if more supplies of food and equipments more Sherpas and more strong members; very steep route, but not dangerous.

No accident, illness, trouble.


Shrestha, MFA - 24 Oct 72

Based 6th camp 6900m and reached 7200m, but on 15th abandoned climbing because 1 more days of climbing still to go.


Otsu - 18 Aug 72

Akinobu Otsu, Toshihiko Mizuno, Tomoyashu Akimoto leave today 11:20.
Noriyuki Ueda arrives KTM mid-Oct; not climber, maybe to base.
Start caravan 19 Aug, 12 days to base.


Otsu - 16 Aug 72

Sato to Pokhara on 14 Aug
Igarashi & Fujita on 15 Aug
Saito & Shindo 16 Aug
Yashuma 17 Aug
others perhaps 18 Aug


Otsu - 8 Aug 72

Total members 10: 7 arrive today and 1 later (mgr arrives Oct, not climber)
2 routes - Glacier
1) Kaphe Khola (Gustez Khola) - southwest
2) Konoban Glacier - southeast

Kaphe Glacier long but very easy, I think; try Kaphe Khola first; 6 high camps: base at 4100m with C6 at 7200m; route onto Dhaulagiri VI - Junction peak ridge to Junction to D-IV.

To Pokhara 11 August: 120 porters. 6-7 Sherpas (Walsung Dorje sirdar). Bbegin caravan 21 Aug and 13 days to base camp to begin climb immediately; summit attempt 10-20 Oct. Selected D-IV because many Japanese parties have failed. This 5th attempt learned from earlier failures: technical difficulties are great, so all members are as good as British in technique for Alps and they use practical Japanese techniques of Bonington there for D-IV. Are members of Everest 1973 Otsu hopes.

Expedition also search for Yeti; he wishes there is Yeti; will be walking around Kaphe-Konoban area looking for Yeti.

None of the expedition climbed in Nepal before (leader arrives in Nepal) sightseeing.


Shindo - 5 Aug 72

Pokhara -> Beni Gurja -> Kharin -> Ghustung Khola -> north of D-VI -> Junction Peak -> D-IV. Very long route: BC to summit 20 km. 7 high camps.
9 members and 7 Sherpas.

1) Mr. Otsu, Leader
2) Mr. Fujita, deputy leader
3) Mr. Akimoto
4) Mr. Igarashi
5) Mr. Mizuno (doctor)
6) Mr. Yashuma
7) Mr. Sato
8) Mr. Saito
9) Mr. Shindo