원정 개요

One member of Dutch Everest expedition in Autumn 1982, angry at leadership or other members, went off by himself and successfully climbed Changtse during expedition. This unnamed member is friend of [Cas/Kasper?] de Stoppelaar, who is associated with Summit Hotel.


Frank Moll - 29 Apr 2003

Members of our team, while climbing towards North Col (7000m) watched Johan Tax climbing in the direction of the summit of Changtse. They were within sound contact of each other and the members climbing towards North Col shouted to Tax: "Don't continue, we will get into trouble with the Chinese authorities!" This because we did not have a permit for Changtse. Measuring their position and the position of Tax they doubted afterwards that Tax could have made it all the way towards the summit and back within the time Tax used that day. However, Tax, on his return towards Advanced Basecamp declared: "The Dutch Changtse Expedition was successful!". This was embarrassing for all since a German team was already heading towards ABC to try the first ascent ever on Changtse. In all, the attempt of Tax was not taken seriously and his claim of the summit was not very credible. Especially because his climb was inspired by his frustrations about the progress of our expedition on Everest. I cannot ask Tax about this incident since he died in a crevasse on the Grenz Glacier in Switzerland a year later.