원정 개요

BC after 3 weeks trip from Kathmandu
C1 by 2 German members only
C2 above 150m-high ice face.

Left KTM on 4 Sept with 13 porters to Lukla and changed to 2 Sherpas from Lukla to 6000m pass. Sherpas to BC only (BC new pass). Until 12 Nov bad weather and did no climbing. 12 Nov up 150m ice face to C2 at 7100m. 14th up and reached 7200m. 15th towards summit (temp -40 degrees C) and reached 8100m at summit plateau at 12:00 hours. To true summit that afternoon and returned C2. 16th rested in C2. 17th Klingl to top from C2 in 5 hours to take photos. Klingl spent total 7 days between 7000-8000m in very cold but clear weather. Saw Everest. Hertkorn stayed in C2, too tired to go to top again. Returned to BC on 18th.

Saleki was in C2 at same time at Klingl and Hertkorn. Saleki not fit enough to go up to top with them. Saleki never summited, but stole Klingl's pictures to prove he had.

Concerning Cho Oyu and Mischa Saleki: He was never above 7000m as stated by Norbert Hertkorn and Rudi Klingl after the expedition 1983 Oct-Nov. See all details in "Bergwelt" 2/1986 (also with Panorama by Klingl who was twice on the summit). I [Hawley] have all documentary proofs further from the father of Hertkorn. Saleki is a most ruthless imposter; by Herrligkoffer he is also stated to be criminal (after stealing equipment from other expedition members).

The Saleki story of traversing Cho Oyu in 1979 is of course all invented in his book. There are also no clear facts mentioned by Saleki who actually is American of Soviet-Russian origin but via Iran later emigrated to Hungary and Western Germany.

[So we can completely leave Saleki's name out for any thing connected with Cho Oyu].