원정 개요

BC at bottom of East Ridge (above (left) of same)
High point at SE Face.

20 April started to Pungen Glacier and 1st night on moraine and then traversed glacier to 5000m on slope/ridge going to pk29 to see face. Spent 2 nights and then back to BC (39 days at BC, only 6 with no snowfall) did acclimatization climbs on NE Face route to 6300m and 6000m (2nd time in chest-deep snow). 3rd acclimatization climb to 7100m on normal route on 13th May in much better snow conditions. All 3 trips alone by climbing at night, sleeping in day. 14th May started 4 members from BC to Pungen Glacier for climb of SE Face and at 4800m rested till 11 pm when 2 members began upward real climb and reached 5200m at base of SE Face to 1 am 19th May. 10:00 pm started up very steep sugar snow which was very dangerous; climbed this terrible snow up to very sharp horizontal ridge with many pinnacles. Now hopeless; minimum 2 days dangerous difficult climb with no chance of retreat if bad weather. Reached 6800m and then gave up when 3 days more without food and fuel. Horrible descent with no protection in warm daylight and had to wait till sun moved behind mountain and snow hardened. 7 pm back in biv at 6200m, 11 pm at 4800m, 4:00 BC 21st May. In night big SE Face is climbed but perhaps best in winter.

20th May decided not to attempt SE Face anymore, but thought to try NE face (normal route); 24 May decided abandon entire climb.

SE Ridge attempt:

19 May 11:00 pm began going up from biv at 4800m
19 May 1:00 am reached 5200m and 7:30 am reached 6200m, where bivouacked
20 May 10:00 am reached 6800m
20 May 7:00 pm were back at 6200m bivouac
20 May 11:00 pm were back at 4800m biv
21 May 4:00 pm were back at BC and climb had ended
21 May at night big snowstorm began and lasted for 3 days, so now on 24 May
gave up idea of trying normal route since supplies of food, etc were
becoming exhausted.