원정 개요

BC at 4900m before Barun Glacier
C1 at 5800m east side of point 5860m
C2 at 6700m at top of snow ridge in ice cave
C3 at 7100m at same as Yugoslav C3
High point at 7600m at start of South Face.

C1 tent collapsed by wind 12-20 April. 4 members (Moerman, Oefner, Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk) had reached site of C3 on 12 April but illness and difficulty of finding site on which to pitch tent sent them down to BC. Some members started up again on 18th April, repaired tent and slept in C1. 19th to C2 and 20th occupied C2 at "anxious" site as Yugoslav camp, which apparently had not been a problem for Yugoslavs in Autumn season with perhaps better snow conditions. Lack of hard snow on face was serious problem for Dutch. Oefner and Ubbink stayed at C3 on 20th while other 2 descended to BC; both sick (one altitude and 1 stomach). 21st Oefner and Ubbink fixed rope but not far because of big powdered snow avalanche rushing down mountain (no physical damage but brought very cold temperature and discouraged climbers). 22nd fixed more rope on difficult traverse and Oefner fell 5m but saved by well placed piton. "Were same tricky traverses" but rock very solid. 23rd down to BC because they tired and other 2 were sick and could not go up. Moerman and Oefner up to C3 in 3 days and tried to fix rope above previous high point but very windy and cold. 2 May Oefner to end of ropes at 7500m while Moerman down and Oefner also down. 4th May Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk, one day behind other two, up to highest point 7600m (Yugoslav C2), but 5th May back to BC tired; had planned to fix rope to slightly above traverse and then go to top alpine-style, but illness and exhaustion defeated them. All in BC; decided now to make summit push from high point (7600m). All 5 members to C2 (9th May to C1, 10th to C2). Oefner and Ubbink supported by others to make summit bid. 12th May Oefner, Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk reached C3 planning now to biv at top of fixed ropes, but too tired and descended instead. To C2 12 May, 13th BC. Lost too much energy fighting wind and not enough manpower because of illness (Moerman had continuing altitude problem).

With little more manpower and better weather, original climbing plan would have worked. Plan to return with six members in 1988 if can find financing so quickly.