원정 개요

BC at northeast end of Tilicho lake (normal site)
ABC on North Ridge (300m above bottom of ridge)
C1 on North Ridge.

Waited in BC till 14 April but weather "not very nice" and on 11th April heavy snowfall. Needed one week of very good weather to launch new summit attack: 2m deep snow. ABC and C1 had been destroyed in 5 minutes on 5 April when bad weather (heavy snow and strong wind) struck and stopped summit attempt that day. But weather did not stabilize and more and more snow being added.

First part of climb technically medium difficulty and last part not at all difficult, but the weather on Tilicho brings terrible wind (like at Jomsom) and fast new snow dumping.