원정 개요

BC at lower than normal site (Khumbukarna Glacier)
ABC at normal BC.

Mountain very difficult and weather bad and strong winds especially on top on summit. Team had to make BC lower than normal. Leader and doctor had to go up to ABC because porters refused to go higher and leader and doctor helped carry loads to ABC; interpreter also twice carried loads. C2 occupied only on 2 May because heavy snowfall in April. Summit party went to top together; left C4 at 2:30 am and on top 11:20 in very strong wind. Did not climb via col but chose slightly shorter route. Spent only 15 minutes on top because of wind. Slept in C3 9th May, where arrived 6:30 pm; went to C3 because C4 on sloping surface and not much space there. 3 summiters got frostbitten cheeks and 2 frostbitten toes and fingers but nothing very serious. On ascent at 8300m 1 member hit by big avalanche and which took his hat and gloves down with it but he was not carried down or hurt (not even frostbitten); 2 teams roped together and man hit was protected by other's belay: avalanche started by team above him - snow 75cm deep from C2 to C4.

21 May 98 - Hans Kammerlander: his teammate Seeber watched Tibetans on this summit day through powerful binoculars and believe they stopped 50 meters below summit. Kammerlander is sure not all reached summit, maximum 3 did.

25 May 98 - Fausto De Stefani believes Tibetans used oxygen but did not actually see them doing so. Had good supply of bottles and masks at high camp.