원정 개요

BC higher than others
C4 above Shelf.

In later half of April frequent snowfall and much work to make route and camps. Avalanche carried De Stefani 250m nearly at C4 but very light snow and he could swim out of it with no serious damage. 9 May up for summit to 8450m and down because wind and small throat problem and down to BC. 12 May De Stefani and Gyalzen to C1, stayed 1 hour and slept in C2. 13 May both to C3 and slept there. 14 May 7:00 am started to C4 in very good weather with slight wind in day and none at night; arrived C4 4:00 pm. 3-1/2 hours in C4 and 7:30 pm started for 400m couloir which is excellent condition (some line routes at Tibetans) and bright moonlight. On summit 00:14 hours on 15th (stop at 8450m for cup of cappuchino, a delightful experience. From top could see around many dotted villages lights and this lovely. 3 hours to return from top to C4 but did not sleep till reached C2 because "important for me to go down" since not having using oxygen: very tired arrived C2 6 hours after top.