원정 개요

BC at Yalung Glacier near Jannu East BC
ABC at normal Kangchenjunga BC
C1 in normal C1
C2 just below Great Shelf
C3 on higher (northern) part of Shelf
High point at Col.

Problem with porters demanding Rs 2500 each for 2-day carry to normal BC (good weather and no snow in early March). After ABC reached, snowfall began and went down. Again made C1 and down because snow. 3 April brothers up from BC. 4 April ABC to C1. 5 April made route to C3 from C1 and slept at C1. 6 April to C2 to sleep. 7 April C3. 8th April to Col between Yalung Kang and Main Summit and sleep in C3. 9 April down to ABC because needed more acclimatization. Rested at BC and then days of bad weather. Many times up to ABC only and 19 April got to little above C1 to sleep (6400m) but every day snowfall prevented more progress - then avalanching and winds. 2 May Toni and Tibetans fixed rope C2 to C3; 3 May up to Shelf, where tent gone, and then down to ABC and climb finished because 2 months spent at mountain left no motivation; also have to go to Spain for few days with family and then to Karakoram: 4 peaks have own permits and on K2 join other Spanish team's permit - may not return to Nepal.