원정 개요

BC lower than normal because porters not dressed properly
C1 on lip of Great Shelf
C2 just above Shelf (bivouac only).

18 May very early morning tried to go for top but very cold wind and no light (headlamp failed) and thigh deep snow, returned from 7800m to C3 about 1:00 am. 7:00 am again up and this time Kammerlander and Auer to top (not via Col but same line of Tibetans) at 2:00 pm in cold but not very windy. Kammerlander skied from 7600m to all the way to BC. Did not take skis to top because too much rock above 8200m and thought would not be possible much above 7600m.

Not happy with success because "too high price (frostbite) for normal route," lot of Tibetan ropes and too slow. Not his style climb with 3 camps and 3 weeks on mountain. Now with frostbitten toes (will lose some tips) cannot go immediately to Manaslu but will have to wait till 1999.