Italian Himalayan Expedition to Baruntse
Baruntse · 1998 · 봄 (1) · Italy
원정 개요
BC at normal site
C1 below West Col on west side
C2 on SE Ridge just above West Col
C3 on SE Ridge.
Expedition to Baruntse of Italian Baruntse.
Expedition April 1998
3 April The expedition flies to Lukla
4 Lukla to Chutanga
5 Chutanga to Chhotrara, 4200m altitude; we begin to find snow
6 Chhotrara to Tashing Dingra, 3550m altitude
7 Stop one day for acclimatize overself
8 Tashing Dingra to Tangnag, 4200m altitude in the evening snowed
9 Stop one day for acclimatize ourself
10 Tangnag to Khare, 4800m altitude we found 150m snow
11 We got over Mera Pass 5480m altitude and stopped at 5200m alt little down
12 We go down until the Hunku Glacier and we stop at the Chatlang
We find 2m of new snow to go is very bad
13 Go on along the Honku Glacier it is very difficult for the new
snow we stop in the nearly of Panch Pokhari
14 After a march of more than 6 hours in the new snow we reach the BC
15 Stop for preparation our equipment and rest
16 Stop like day 15th
17 We go to look for high C1 place
18 Rest
19 Rest
20 BC to high C1 below the West Col 5950m alt
21 We work to put the fix rope very slowly cause the bad weather
22 We continue to work
23 We finish to put the fix rope to reach the glacier over Honku
24 It snows and we just put the high C2 on the West Col ridge 6140m
25 West Col ridge to high C3 at 6400m altitude
26 We start for summit at 3 am. At 8:00 am at an altitude of 6750m
because of the very hard to go up for new snow and the in
insupportable hot we decide to go down. We got to high C1.
27 High C1 to BC
28 BC to Amphu Laptsa BC
29 We got over Amphu Laptsa and reached Island Peak BC
30 Island Peak BC to Dingboche
1 May Dingboche to Namche Bazar
2 Namche Bazar to Lukla
3 Lukla to Jiri to Kathmandu
In spite of we didn't reach the summit of Baruntse mountain, I am very happy for this mountaineering experience for the exceptional performance of the sirdar Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa and the porters were very strong and they didn't give any problem in spite of the difficulties.
Unfortunately we don't get seat for the flight for Lukla to Kathmandu for the 3rd of May and was impossible to postpone the internationals flight to Italy - fixed for the 4th of May caused the overbooking in this.
- 내부 원정 ID2630
- 원본 EXPIDBARU98101
- 대장Paolo Giachini
- 루트 (Route)SE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6750m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)
참가자 3명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paolo Giachini | Italy | Leader | - | - | - |
| Marcello De Matteis | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | - |