원정 개요

ABC at top of icefall
C1 right below Col
C2 at West Col
High point at West Col (C2).

From West Col had good look at West Ridge and saw old fixed lines 10 ft above surface of mountain: looked like clothes line; pins pulled out and hanging; 10 ft of ice had melted out from under lines and left bare loose rock. Ridge had been snow and ice in previous attempt in 1990 and team had brought little rock gear. Then weather turned bad with snow falling and had taken longer to get to col than expected; if had been snow and ice, could have climbed it in 3 days but now would have taken more time than that and team didn't have more time. It seems glaciers are retreating and difficult rock is being exposed.