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Vorarlberger Expedition to Makalu

Makalu · 1998 · 봄 (1) · Austria

원정 개요

BC at moraine below Barun Pokhari
ABC at moraine just below start of Chago Glacier
C1 at start of steep glacier to Makalu La
C2 at Makalu La
C3 near NW Ridge
High point near NW Ridge.

Team climbed 4 times to Makalu La. After C3 slept in on 6 May and tried to go up next morning but terrible winds knocked them over and broke tents at C3 and C2 so did no climbing up and instead to ABC (were Theo Fritsche, Stefan Jungmann, Reinhold Schneider).

Next up were Frische and Schneider again, from ABC on 13th to C1 and 14th to C2. 14th Jungmann and Mattle left ABC early am and to Makalu La in 9-1/2 hours, rested in C2 and joined others in attempt for summit. Left C2 just before midnight of 14th in bright moonlight but strong wind from north and later clouds and snowfall coming. 3:30 am all 4 men turned back at 7800m because strong wind and clouds made it impossible to see way. Snow started at 3:00 am and brought 20cm snow. In descent 2 men fell 5 & 10m in bad snow conditions but not hurt. Schneider's nose frostbitten during night but will heal. Now climb finished: no more time and strength.

  • 내부 원정 ID2624
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA98102
  • 대장Roland Mattle
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7800m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Roland MattleAustriaLeader---
Theodor (Theo) FritscheAustriaClimber---
Stefan JungmannAustriaClimber---
Walter KnaussAustriaClimber---
Reinhold SchneiderGermanyClimber---
Kurt Peter SpeerAustriaClimber---

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