한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Saxon Himalayan Expedition Makalu-Everest

Makalu · 1998 · 봄 (1) · Germany

원정 개요

BC southwest of Barun Pokhari
ABC at junction of Barun and Chago Glacier
C1 at Chago Glacier top end of rocks that divide it
C2 at beginning of steep climb to Makalu La
Biv at Makalu La (not fixed camp)
High point at couloir near NW Ridge.

At first were alone and difficult to fix route to Makalu so climbed to La in alpine-style taking tent from C3, made no fixed camp at La, but on 25th went up with tent intending to camp at 7800m but snowfall prevented their seeing the way up so camped at 7600m. 26th 3:00 am started up and 3:00 pm were at 8300m, when it started to snow heavily and many avalanches coming down couloir they were at bottom of. Difficult to see tent so continued descent and at 6:00 am of 27th reached Makalu La and Austrian tent, where they realized had frostbitten toes; rested 3 hours and down to C2 at 2:00 pm; Wiegand to ABC at midnight; Meutzner (worst frostbite) stayed in C2 with 2 members who had not made summit push; Kuegler and Stingl to ABC. Meutzner evacuated by helicopter from BC on 30 April.

Had made early push because trekkers were coming and wanted to go to Everest. Graefe left BC with trekkers. 4 remaining members wanted to go up again but Bulgarian doctor warned of serious consequences if Wiegand and Stingl continued up and they back to ABC while Kuezler and Zuellchner to C1 on 8th to C2 on 9th, stayed C2 10th because of strong winds, 11th to Makalu La where others tents were avoidable to them since Germans had done much rope fixing 12th weather bad and they not feeling strong. Zuellchner down to C2 and Kuegler up to 7000m to retrieve tent and its contents (the tent they had been unable to see in descent from 8300m) and down to Makalu La. Had decided on 12th to abandon summit plans. Both to BC on 14th.

15th 3 remaining members left BC by helicopter taking almost all equipment but Wiegand stayed on with sirdar. Wiegand's feet much better and thought to try for top in 2nd half of May. On 18th May in good weather up from ABC to C2, where their tent had been left. On 19th to Makalu La to Russian tent. 20th to 7900m and another Russian tent. 21st up from 7900m with Catalan Spanish team but at 8200m turned back because toes very cold and stayed at 7900m and worked on his feet that day. 22nd reached nearly same point as in April, at 8200m this time all alone (sirdar had not come up with Wiegand but came up to meet him at C2 on descent) and again toes very cold and finally accepted fact his toes would not permit summit ascent. Down on 22nd near the end of his strength and could descend only to Makalu La and was completely alone as all Spaniards had gone down. 23rd to C2 where sirdar met him with food (had had nothing to eat for 3-4 days). On 23rd to ABC (local porter had come to C1 to take Wiegand's back pack).

  • 내부 원정 ID2623
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA98101
  • 대장Goetz Wiegand
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8300m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유사고 (6)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Goetz WiegandGermanyLeader---
Frank Udo MeutznerGermanyDeputy Leader---
Frank GraefeGermanyClimber---
Karsten KueglerGermanyClimber---
Joerg StinglGermanyClimber---
Heiko ZuellchnerGermanyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

GipfeltraumeMeutzner, Frank & Wiegand, Gotz · 1998 · 단행본 (1) ·