원정 개요

BC above Gorak Sshep at normal SE Ridge route site
C2 at SW Col.

Stofer announced in KTM he would be independent climber and not integral member of expedition; didn't believe in expeditions (joined team from seeing it on being listed on internet). Stofer skipped C1, put in C2 before C1 had been established, then down and up with Rippel to fix route beyond Col, through some towers and back to ridge. At midnight of 17th-18th Stofer set out alone from C2 and summited about 5 pm, stayed on top 10 minutes and biv in descent at 6400m in dark and without biv sack biv in snowhole till daylight; then down to BC.

Burks, Dick and Werby went no higher than C1 because of chest problem and Werby's headaches. Rippel and Richards to 6400m on 16th and 17th May, respectively (to top of fixed ropes). Rippel turned back because of responsibilities for his ailing members and Richards found route too technical for him to solo.

Fixed rope 1400m used from just below C1 to 6400m, 700m of it on traverse from Col to 6400m.