원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 a little below NE Col
C2 a little left of NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge.

Did not attempt North Face because after 4 May deep snow piled up and avalanched and strong winds came, so abandoned plan for North Face climb and followed normal route. 19 May Stres because seriously ill with cerebral edema in C3 and had to be carried down quickly by Slovenes and "nice" help from Italian team and every 100m of descent his health improved and in BC was normal. 3 summit teams to top on 3 days. Meglic climbed for 15 hours only from BC to top if counting climbing time only but spent nights in C1 and C3 on way to top.

On 25 May Stres and Markovic at midnight (of 24/25) left BC and went to north side to climb North Face of "Eiger" spur; at 2:00 am started up the Eiger and reached its top at 4:00 pm in about 1000 vertical meter ascent of small icefalls and rock 40 degrees in upper part; from its top moved left along ridge and reached normal route a litte below C1 and at 9:00 pm were in BC; this climb in "face climbing" style.