원정 개요

1st attempt 2 May by Juanito with Bereziartua and Vallezo of other Basque team to an aluminum pole which is not on top but is 50m below it; here many people consider it at top and go back from here; here ridge is very sharp and difficult to go higher and to get to true top one must traverse at about 8100m across North Face to point slightly beyond true summit and back on ridge to top. When reaching pole and peak slightly above, one can see more peaks and true top beyond. So down on 2 May to C3 and next day to BC.

Tried again on 13 May all Juanito's members and San Sebastian's Inurrategi brothers, Lazkano and San Sebastian BC to C1 and brothers and Juanito's 4 to C2 that day. 14th 5 men to C3 (Roju not). 15th waited in C3 because wind. 16th leave C3 for top but at 7400m because snow looked like slabs and dangerous and some members had stomach problems so down to BC same day.

20th Inurrategi brothers and Juanito BC to C2. 21st to C3, 22nd to top, from C3 at 2:00 am and on top 10:00 am and down to C2 at 5:00 pm. This time made proper traverse to true summit. This route not difficult most of its length only problem is traverse where snow slabs are dangerous and there is small couloir up to ridge.