원정 개요

C1 at NE Col.

1st attempt 2 May by Juanito with Bereziartua and Vallezo of other Basque team to an aluminum pole which is not on top, but is 50m below it, here many people consider it at top and go back from here. Here ridge is very sharp and difficult to go higher and to get to true top one must traverse at about 8100m across North Face to point slightly beyond true summit and back on ridge to top. When reaching pole and peak slightly above, one can see more peaks and true top beyond. So down on 2 May to C3 and next day to BC.

Tried again on 13 May all Juanito's members and San Sebastian's Inurrategi brothers, Lazkano and San Sebastian BC to C1 and brothers and Juanito's 4 to C2 that day. 14th 5 men to C3 (Rojo not). 15th waited in C3 because wind. 16th leave C3 for top but at 7400m because snow looked like slabs and dangerous and some members had stomach problems so down to BC same day.

20th Inurrategi brothers and Juanito BC to C2. 21st to C4, 22nd to top from C3 at 2:00 am and on top 10:00 am and down to C2 at 5:00 pm. This time made proper traverse to true summit. This route not difficult most of its length: only problem is traverse where snow slabs are dangerous and there is small couloir up to ridge.


BC-Nepal-Mountaineering
Basque climbers make personal history on Dhaulagiri I
By Elizabeth Hawley

Kathmandu, May 24 (Reuters) - Three Spanish Basque mountaineers reached the summit of the world's seventh highest mountain on May 22, Nepal's tourism ministry announced today, and came closer in their efforts to join the ranks of the very few men who have successfully scaled all of the world's 14 mountains that tower more than 8000 meters (26,260 ft) above sea level.
The successful Basques were a pair of brothers who always climb 8000 meter mountains together and have now, with their "conquest" two days ago of Mt. Dhaulagiri I (Mt. Dhaulagiri one), been to the summits of nine of them.
The brothers are professional climbers Felix and Alberto Inurrategi from Aretxabaleta, Gipuzkoa, aged 31 and 29, respectively. They have now scaled the world's seven highest mountains, all in or on the borders of Nepal, plus one peak in Tibet, Xixabangma (Shisapangma), and one in Pakistan known as Broad Peak.
The third Basque who succeeded two days ago on Dhaulagiri I, which is 8167 meters (26,795 ft) high, has even more "8000-ers" to his credit. Juanito Oiarzabal, 42, mountain guide from Vitoria, has now climbed twelve of them.
Oiarzabal had planned to climb one more that is rather near Dhaulagiri I which is named Annapurna I this spring, but bad weather early this month delayed too much the Dhaulagiri I ascent and will have to be attempted later. He already had scheduled the last of his 8000-ers, Xixabangma, for 1999.
They scaled Dhaulagiri I via its standard climbing route up the northeast ridge. They are the tenth, eleventh and twelfth Spanish nationals ever to reach its summit. They never climbed with artificial oxygen.
Only five mountaineers have ever summited all 14 8000-ers, and none of them was Spanish.